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FASHION // 19/04/2012, 03:14h

OBEY Clothing was was formed in 2001 founded on the art, design and ideals of Shepard Fairey. In short: it is an extension of Shepard’s range of work.

The ‚contemporary master of semantics‘ follows Marshall McLuhan’s simple but accurate statement: „The medium is the message.“  The OBEY  campaign is rooted in the D.I.Y. counterculture of punk rock and skateboarding combined with main features of popular culture, commercial marketing and political messaging.

It all started with an absurd sticker he created in 1989:
The OBEY sticker campaign can be explained as an experiment in Phenomenology following Heidegger: “[...] phenomenology is the process of letting things manifest themselves.” All in the name of fun and observation. This later evolved into the "Obey Giant " campaign, which has grown via an international network of collaborators replicating Fairey's original designs. As with most street artists, the Obey Giant was intended to inspire curiosity and cause the masses to question their relationship with their surroundings.

"The sticker has no meaning but exists only to cause people to react, to contemplate and search for meaning in the sticker."

OBEY is about variety and experience, thinking about your surroundings and questioning the purpose.

„The FIRST AIM OF PHENOMENOLOGY is to reawaken a sense of wonder about one’s environment. Whether the reaction be positive or negative, the stickers existence is worthy as long as it causes people to consider the details and meanings of their surroundings. In the name of fun and observation.“

Aligned with his populist views, clothing became another canvas to spread his art and message to the people. The Obey Apparel  is heavily inspired by classic military design, work wear basics, as well as the elements and cultural movements Shepard has based his art career on.

Born February 15, 1970 Frank Shepard Fairey is an American contemporary graphic designer and illustrator. Fairey became involved with art in 1984, when he started to place his drawings on skateboards and T-shirts. In 1988, he graduated from Idyllwild Arts Academy, and in 1992, Fairey graduated from Rhode Island School of Design with a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Illustration.

His work became more widely known in the 2008 U.S. presidential election due to his Barack Obama "Hope" poster.

Fairey's first art museum exhibition was in Boston at the Institute of Contemporary Art („[he is] one of today's best known and most influential street artists.“) in the summer of 2009. Fairey’s transition from renegade street artist to insider art professional doesn’t seem to have dulled his radical edge.

„The real message behind most of my work is ‘question everything’. So I’m picking apart some of the symbols of Americana that a lot of times people just adhere to out of some idea of this vague abstract American dream, and the way that a lot of times politicians use these hollow symbols as a way to get people to get behind ideas that normally they probably wouldn’t support if they were deconstructed.“

„But I try to maintain a sense of humor about it because I don’t want everything I’m making just to be depressing. Art needs to hit people on a visual level that they enjoy and intuitively they’re going to respond to when they see it.“

In 2003 he founded the Studio Number One design agency with his wife Amanda Fairey. The agency produced the cover work for The Black Eyed Peas' album Monkey Business and the poster for the film Walk the Line. Fairey has also designed the covers for The Smashing Pumpkins' album Zeitgeist, Flogging Molly's CD/DVD Whiskey on a Sunday, the Led Zeppelin compilation Mothership and Anthrax's The Greater Of Two Evils.

In 2011 Time Magazine commissioned Fairey to design its cover to honor "The Protester" as Person of the Year in the wake of the Arab Spring, Occupy Wall Street and other social movements around the world. This was Fairey's second Person of the Year cover for Time, his first being of Barack Obama in 2008.

DENIM // 5/04/2012, 12:47h

Denim meets culture

Speaking of "OKAYAMA" is speaking of "JEANS". Japan is known as the setting of the famous Japanese fable Momotaro and nowadays as the mecca of the finest denim.

The vintage boom in Japan started with people paying hefty prices for real American vintage Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler but gradually evolved into a style where brands began to recreate vintage styles in premium denim material. During the 1960s, jeans were almost worshiped by the younger generation who was able to afford their life by themselves. They wanted to wear jeans like their screen heroes such as Jimmy Dean or Keiich Akagi. At that time, the Japanese industry wanted to produce domestic Jeans due to the increasing market. However, the status quo of Japanese Jeans was far away from being a genuine Jean at that time.

The capital of denim industry was USA for a long time. Until 1975, the Jeans makers in Japan were just crazy about purchasing denim fabrics from the USA (specially KOJIMA area and IBARA area in OKAYAMA). Contemporaneous, local weaver realized that Okayama had been the capital of cotton weaves since the Edo Period. In 1970, the dyeing factory in HIROSHIMA analyzed the construction of American high quality denim and developed the first domestic rope dyeing machine which improved the process of rope dyeing system at that time. Their founder's spirits had been bringing the traditional technique such as color and texture into the modern jeans world. Major spinning mill in KURASHIKI expanded spinning facilities for thick yarn count and build the first model of domestic heavy ounce denim.  The first model of genuine domestic Jeans was produced in 1973. After that the demand for domestic jeans had been increasing and the production fields of Jeans were formed around west-side Japan, especially at "BIT-TYU" and "BINNGO" area because of the better infrastructure.

Japan Blue  is a jeans brand created by legendary Japanese denim fabric mills, called COLLECT, in 2010. It is the same fabric manufacture behind Momotaro denim and has a deep routed tradition of denim making in Kojima, Okayama. They produce only basic five pocket jeans and save useless design, because they want their customer to enjoy material fading purely. While the design was important, the fact is that the company wanted the concept of high-quality denim to be the focal point. In the meantime the Japan Blue Group is recognized internationally for creating premium denim and occasionally going over the top. They are living in the present and doing what they do best, and this is something that has gotten the brand appreciation across the world.

We at SUN/SET/STAR stock the following 3 models: „Model 0700SP Vintage Selvedge Tight Straight “, „Model JB0703 Antique Indigo Tight Straight “ and „Model JB0102 Deep Blue Skinny Straight “.

"MOMOTARO'S STORY" is one of the five major folklore stories in Japan and has been passing hands down from generation to generation. Momotaro is the name of a hero from the story “Momotaro Densetsu” (“Peach Boy”):

Once upon a time there was an old man and his wife living in a japanese village. They felt very sad and lonely because they had no children.
One day the old woman went to the river to wash some clothes. Suddenly a big peach came floating down the river. It actually was the biggest peach she'd ever seen in her entire life. She pulled the peach out of the river and decided to take it with her for supper.
Back home she was getting ready to cut the peach in two pieces. "Wait! Don't cut me!" said a human voice from inside the peach. Suddenly the peach split open and a beautiful baby boy jumped out of the peach.
The old man and woman were astounded but very happy and so they took the baby to be their son. Since he was born from a peach, they named him Momotaro, which means Peach Boy.
When Momotaro was about fifteen years old, he told his father that he must do something to help their country. In a distant part of the sea there was an island named „Ogre Island“. Many wicked ogres live there which terrorize the people of Japan. So Momotaro is going to go to „Ogre Island“ and fight them and bring back the treasure they have there.
The old man gave him a sword and armor, and the old woman fixed him a good lunch of millet dumplings. Then Momotaro began his journey, promising his parents that he would come back soon.
Momotaro went walking toward the sea. It was a long way. Momotaro met on his way a spotted dog, a monkey and a pheasant, who usually hated each other but all became good friends and followed Momotaro faithfully.
So, with Momotaro as their general they finally reached the sea. At the edge of the sea Momotaro built a boat and they all got in the boat and started across the sea toward Ogre Island.
When they came within sight of the island, they could see that the ogres had a very strong fort there. And there were many, many ogres. It was a terrible battle! At last the ogres were completely defeated. They all bowed down low before Momotaro and promised never to do wicked things again. Then they brought Momotaro all the treasure they had stored in the fort.
It was the most wonderful treasure you can imagine. There was much gold and silver and many precious jewels. There was an invisible coat and hat, arid a hammer that made a piece of gold every time you hit it on the ground, and many other wonderful things. Momotaro and his three helpers carried all this in their boat back home…

Japan Blue Jeans . Made in OKAYAMA, Japan.

SUN/SET/STAR note: The last 2 pictures show "Model 0700SP " and "Model JB0102 " after 6 months of wearing and 1 wash.

ABOUT // 30/01/2012, 04:19h

Pomade  – hairstyle since the 16th century.

The English word pomade, as it is in use today, derives from French pommade which means „an ointment“. It arose from Latin pomum (fruit, apple) and Italian pomata (pomo = apple) because the original ointment recipe contained mashed apples.
Hair pomade history reveals its wide application through the ages, while hair pomade definition remains the same.
Hair Pomade is one of the most versatile of all hair styling products. It differs from gel and hairspray in that it does not dry, leaving the hair with a shiny, wet look or even a beamless look (Sportin' Waves Maximum Hold Pomade  for shorter hair and strong hold or Murray's Beeswax  for longer hair), in consequence of the versatile product range.
In the 1950’s the use of a great deal of pomade led to many young men being called “greasers” because they used so much pomade to hold their hair in place.

There are hundreds of different products available on the market. They have differing amounts of oil, usually petroleum jelly, beeswax, and additives to provide scent. For stiffer hold, products with a higher wax content are better (e.g. DAX Wave and Groom , Murray’s Pomade  or Nu Nile Pomade ). For more shine and less stiffness, products that contain more oil or grease and less wax are best (DAX Short and Neat , Sweet Georgia Brown Red , Murray’s Hairglo Pomade ). There is a complete range in between, so choosing a hair pomade will depend greatly on the style chosen.
Hair pomade history shows that the potent effect of hair pomade usage has been commonly appreciated through the years. While the essence of hair pomade remained the same, its numerous advantages, which were accumulated during centuries of development, have greatly contributed to its universal popularity.
Pomade as „heritage site“: Through hair pomade history hair pomade application rules have not changed.
Those who have discovered for themselves the advantages of hair pomade will tell you that it is a valuable source of assistance while attributing the desired shape to difficult hair.
To give you a touch on hair pomade definition as a styling product, it is sufficient to say hair pomade is a kind of styling wax which is characterized mostly by light texture. It is generally applied to render definition to short to medium hair. Hair pomade could also be applicable when it comes to long hair. Through the entire hair pomade history its main function was to keep the hair straight. But the additional important function of hair pomade is nourishing and conditioning the hair.

"In the United States countless articles and goods are manufactured to promote your comfort. If those things that are fairly offered to your comfort or peace are worthy they live. If not, they die. The Murray's Superior Products Company's cosmetics have outlived a score of big names that blazed high for a while and died quickly."
C.D. Murray, 1947 (Founder of Murray’s )

FASHION // 19/01/2012, 04:00h

A collection inspired by individuals living their lives in Edwin Jeans . Personal life experiences etched into the grain of the fabric in wearing the denim as functional garments, reliable and strong, constructed using premium fabrics and finishes.
The Edwin  man is integrated into a tribe of independent free thinkers, his desire to roll amongst the likeminded, underspinned by a feeling of kinship and belonging through a common passion for road trips; adventuring into the unknown.
To ascertain the season’s highway aesthetic is to dissect the look and feel of the Edwin motorcycle fraternity „Sons of Summer“ thereby illustrating the highlights of what of what the most comprehensive Spring/Summer collection of fabric, form and function.
The collection is inspired by authentic vintage pieces, sourced over time; a conscious juxtaposition of influences from decades gone by and heroes and villains from the world of film and music – Edwin eats, sleeps and breathes culture through the design process.
Denim sourcing remains in Japan and Europe in collaboration with premium quality mills offering superior quality. Many fabrics designed, spun, woven and dyed exclusively for Edwin.
Washes remain both subtle and natural. A ‚real life‘ wearing philosophy is applied offering denim with ‚true vintage‘ aesthetic. The identifying Edwin detailing eveolves and offers higher-grade skins used for leather patches and vintage copper donuts matching the rivets.
Denim highlights – The ED range  expands for SS12  as we witness new recruits: The EDA1  – a lightorganic denim is used for this classic tapered fit with minimal external detailing offered exclusively in its 11oz rigid state. The trusted ED55  is offered for the first time in Japanese Red Listed Selvage denim, as well as the highly anticipated 55 Chino  and 77 Chino .
A five options shorts program in lightweight canvas selvage and non-selvage ‚Nep‘ denims/gabardine/tight rip stops and camouflage fabrics will be available.
Shirting constructed to be lived in, created in collaboration with with a premium French mill. Yarns exclusively developed, spun, dyed, woven to create luxury linens and slub cottons, featured in a variety of checks and horizontal stripes, offset by crisp, light poplins in military tones. Classic western style Edwin East Wood Shirt and work shirts offered in European and Japanese lightweight denim and chambrays, designed to be free and easy reliable classics.
Knitwear and Jersey are constructed using a multitude of yarns in weights, construction and colors. Eco Planet recycled yarns in knitwear, offering light, classical pieces in shawl and crew neck styles set off the Italian produced fine gauge natural indigo dyed knitwear. Tough moto cross polo style sweats, classic loop back crews and heavy duty indigo deck jackets all accompany lighter weight slub tee shirts in both printed and pocket styles.
For the ladies, there’s no denying that this is somewhat rugged summer aesthetic yet it contains glamour, sex appeal and luxurious fabrication at its heart and soul. Light, crisp cotton and mixed bamboo yarns on jersey pieces accompany an extensive five-pocket denim collection.
Motorcycle references pepper the collection, partly due to the culture for customisation on the streets Edwin’s home city: Tokyo and simply down to the feelings one experiences riding a motorcycle with friends. A sense of freedom, and of sharing with others the same need for flight and independence. Customisation of ones own motorcycle parallels breaking in ones own denims…unique in spirit.
The true spirit of Edwin Jeans  is created by the person living in them, making everyday count with yesterdays memories etched into the rich indigo fabric, in the knowledge that tomorrow’s good times are still to be created.